The enticement of food and friends lured me out of my bear cave on a freezing cold Saturday afternoon. Ferrying across the harbor always reminds me why I love living where I do, but I wasn't quite prepared for the rush of nostalgia I felt as I came up out of the R Train at the corner Montague and Court Streets. I spent many years marching around these streets and it was fun to have an opportunity to revisit.
I was meeting a friend, fellow writer and former PW colleague Amy Holman on Smith St. Foregoing a miracle, I knew it would be faster to walk than wait for a bus, so I began a brisk stroll down Court Street.
There's still a grittiness to this section of Court Street that stretches back to Chemical Bank, Lamston's and further. Is it due to the preponderance of lawyers and cops? The specific names of establishments change but their activities remain the same.
So it was fun to see that the Queen Italian Restaurant, 84 Court St, sitting where it always has amids McDonalds and KFCs. Don't let the looks deceive you; the interior might be a bit "plain" but the food is very good. This is the restaurant that taught me to love sauteed broccoli rabe. Not too oily, with just the right amount of garlic.
Where some mercenary landmarks make me smile (Perelandra on Joralemon), most of the others are mall-like chains and multiplexs that established themselves long ago only adding to the congestion of strollers.
It's a relief to arrive at Atlantic Avenue, wide and spacious, its brownstone faces hanging on, though a glance eastward shows the edges of the rising Downtown Brooklyn skyline. I dreamed of stopping in at Sahadi's, 187 Atlantic Ave, for pistachios and olive oil (and tomato paste and sun-dried tomatoes) but I was behind schedule and had to push onward.
I did take a quick moment to peek into the old Republic National Bank which has now been taken over by Trader Joe's!! Although not nearly as spectacular as it was in its banking days (there a scene in "For Pete's Sake" that was filmed in this bank), TJ's has maintained the splendor of the medallioned ceiling and arched windows.
As with all the city, Cobble Hill has changed with time. Gone are the days of four Italian pork stores that serviced 16 city blocks. Some chains have moved in but it was nice to see the amount of neighborhood business that was still working hard. Book Court, 163 Court St, has soldiered on even with an enormous Barnes & Noble just a few blocks up as well as the Neighborhood Bookstore, the scariest, most-likely-to-die-in bookstore in the US. It was also nice to see long time street regulars like Staubitz and Jim & Andy's Produce.
This family business give you an opportunity to step back in time. "Only a produce stand", it is the place to get fruit and veggies, plain and exotic, in Cobble Hill. Be sure to venture into the back and ask what's in the refrigerator. If you like real fresh mushrooms, these are your guys; I always knew Spring was here when the Morels arrived at Jim & Andy's. If you don't see it, ask; it may be downstairs. And the scales are still suspended from the tin ceiling. I waved in to the owner and we caught up in 30 seconds. that is a neighborhood store!
My rendezvous with Amy was taking place at Cubana Cafe, 272 Smith St. Cutting over to Smith Street via DeGraw allowed me to pass by the Cobble Hill Cinema, the neighborhood cinema which still offers $7 bargain days on Tuesdays & Thursdays. DeGraw was an excellent choice because no soon than I turned the corner onto Smith than bam!! I literally walked into the entry awning of the restaurant. Cabana is a bright, cheerful spot and has a Latin flavor. Though in a location that has housed a good number of earlier restaurants, it is one of a series of establishments by this group so should be able to have some neighborhood staying power. Tasty ample portions at reasonable prices work in its favor as well. They also do Desayuno (breakfast) anytime! Yeah!! I had a Cuban Benedict, poached eggs and chorizo on Cuban bread with a chipotle sauce and found it immensely satisfying. They also offer a lovely array of cocktails, most featuring rum or tequila. Sitting at the window chatting, watching the strollers go by, and discussing the Carroll Garden "Dialect of Discretion" my heart panged a bit for the old neighborhood.
But I have promises to keep and miles to go before I sleep!! Making my way back up Court St with a quick pit stop in Marquet Patisserie, 221 Court Street, some the best croissant and pain au chocolat in town, I made my way back up to beautiful Borough Hall to meet my friend Robert.
Robert had gotten us some tickets to the Heights Players production of Tom Eyen's "Women Behind Bars". This wacked-out trash-fest of a theater work originally ran off-broadway for 331 performances and had brain-etching performances by Divine and Brenda Bergman. A show rarely resurrected, it would be interesting to see what this hardy local theater company would do with it.
But before we would do that, Robert and I explored a new neighborhood restaurant in lower Brooklyn Heights. Bread and Butter, 46 Henry Street, classifies itself as New American with a lean towards the south. Southern Fried Chicken dinner for two and three kinds of macaroni and cheese are highlights of the menu. The long dark room has exposed brick and seemed very empty before dinner service picked up. The owners should consider their volume level for music, if needed at all. Seasonally driven, the menu is simple and fresh. We shared the Medjool Dates stuffed with Cambozola
cheese and wrapped in bacon. It's a very nice starter with a lot going on but not overwhelming! I had their Chipotle braised beef short ribs topped with tomato jam. The accompanying savory bread pudding was lovely for mopping up the juices and the wilted greens were a lovely addition to the plate. My companion had a grouper special of the night and proclaimed his meal a qualified success. I would totally agree with him!
And as for the Height Player's production of "Women Behind Bars"... well it's a great camp romp that was not greatly served. Though many individuals had moments or characters that shone, it never rose to the manic level it needed. Better luck next time, Pauline.
