THE TOURONDEL OF THE SCREW: BLT Burger

Of all the top chefs of New York City, Laurent Tourondel seems to have the most sordid past. As the chef many years ago at the Upper East Side boite Cello, Tourondel served up immaculate seafood to rival Eric Ripart at Le Bernardin and flavor combinations to give Daniel Boulud a run for his money. Then POOF!! The place closed overnight, deep in debt, one of the partners having embezzled most of the funds. Tourondel also seemed to disappear into the night.

Then in 2004, he reappeared on 57th St with Bistro Laurent Tournodel Steak, a French twist on the American steakhouse, which proudly proclaimed the chef was back and with a vengeance!! As the restaurant garnered praise, the Bistro Laurent Tourondel (BLT) brand spread; BLT Fish and BLT Prime opened in the City; satellites of BLT Steak sprung up around the country. Like a spurned lover, Tourondel reemerged as a restaurateur determined NEVER to have THAT happen to him again!!

Now we have BLT Burger, on 460 Sixth Avenue (twixt 11th and 12th st). Taking on the all-American hamburger, Tourondel has eschewed the high-end Boulud Burger for the basic Burger King take-out variety.

Diagrammatically analyzed and constructed (bun, burger, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle, mustard, ketchup and mayo), they are never cooked beyond medium. You can upgrade your beef to American or Japanese Kobe beef (the Japanese will raise your burger investment closer to Boulud's at $62!), but I'd question whether it's worth it. Using a blend of four different beef cuts for his patties, I found the burger genuinely tasty and moist. Whether striped down to its essential beef-and-bun (you can request items be removed from your burger) or all dolled up (sorry but I just don't do pickles and mustard on ANYTHING), the sandwich is consistently flavorful with a nice grill-charred smokiness to it. Matched with nicely prepped French Fries, a classic platter with a soft drink will set you back $13. Platters can also be ordered with a milkshake (served in a classic fountain milkshake glass) for $16 or a draft beer (brewery choices include Blue Point, Mad Hat and Smutty Nose) for $17. If you are going a la carte, I would suggest replacing your fries with the Vidalia Onion Rings to accompany your burger. Desserts such as pie a la mode and ice cream sundaes are available, if you have room.

Decor seems overlooked in this shotgun bistro-cum-diner, and the frosted lighting give the impression of it being smoke-filled and dank on the nicest day. But I haven't been returning for the "scene". I have finally found where the beef is!!